Nonna Silvia’s Still Sizzles
by Charles P. Pecoraro, Fra Noi Inc. ©2010 reprinted with permission. Visit www.franoi.com.
It’s 5:30 on a typical Friday and the wait begins. Most of the folks in line have been here before and know what to expect. They observe patiently, hoping a table will soon become available at Nonna Silvia’s.
On Saturdays, the waiting game starts all over again. Some customers may be in line 30 minutes before being seated. A few ventured from as far as Schaumburg or Barrington.
A queue of eager diners isn’t unusual, particularly at the hot new restaurants. This Park Ridge trattoria isn’t exactly new, but sure is sizzling.
Since opening four years ago, Nonna Silvia’s has blossomed into one of the area’s preferred destinations for notable Italian cooking and pizza. Most of its 50 seats are occupied on weeknights, and waiting lines are inevitable on weekends. Diners are saying yes to Nonna, and partners/chefs/cousins John Giannini and Steve Marti respond with comforting dishes and imaginative flavors not likely found at Americanized Italian restaurants. They ratchet up the hospitality by stepping out of the kitchen every so often to mingle with their audience.
Produce and herbs from Marti’s farm are used extensively to intensify their cooking with freshness and stimulating subtleties. Examples: fettucine hand-rolled with organic Swiss chard, and ravioli stuffed with home-grown — not canned or frozen — pumpkin aroused with sage.
The preliminaries are a preview of good things to come. Pasta e fagioli, for instance, was hearty and warming, the noodles nice and firm, the broth deep and decent. Indeed, a super soup for a frosty winter evening.
Calamari alla griglia con spinaci is long in title and taste. Freshly marinated whole squid are lightly grilled and served over sautéed spinach, grape tomatoes and artichoke hearts. A drizzle of aged balsamic and splash of EV olive oil complete the chewy treat.
Previously mentioned fettucine belongs on the pasta A-list. The chard imparts a dark green tone and earthy essence to the noodles, while freshly crushed garlic, a touch of red chili peppers and a dusting of Parmigiano encourage a “wow.”
Another primo pasta is mezza luna, translating into half-moon shaped packets packed with a puree of fennel sausage, spinach and nutty flavored fontinella cheese in a gratifying sauce of heirloom — not ordinary — tomatoes sparked with basil.
Unlike some risotti in which the ingredients are overwhelmed by the rice, this di mare interpretation lets Alaskan king crab, shrimp, clams, mussels and calamari take the lead role with Arborio rice in support. Deft dashes of basil and garlic help assure seafood succulence in every forkful.
Though the Greeks claim to have the best lamb recipes, the Giannini-Marti tandem make a convincing statement with agnello modo mio. New Zealand (read: premium) rack of lamb is marinated with fresh herbs and lemon, grilled to acharred turn and served in a puddle of deliciously dark reduction sauce, with garlic mashed potatoes on the side.
Kudos also are in order for the red snapper al forno (roasted with kalamata olives, herbs and lemon over toasted ciabatta with shoestring sweet potatoes), and pollo Venuto (chicken breast sauteed with onions, shiitake mushrooms, spinach and sun-dried tomatoes in creamy goat cheese sauce).
A dessert that nicely complements any meal is pumpkin cheesecake — light, luscious, not overly sweet and crowned with a dollop of whipped cream. Homemade tiramisù and fried dough balls satisfy, too. The 50-count wine roster, highlighting top-shelf Italian labels, is compatible with the cuisine.
Despite not much wiggle room, youthful servers like Desirae Mercuri weave in and out of traffic with affable, accommodating efficiency.
The corner storefront emits a casual, come-as-you-are vibe with a faux brick wall, tin ceiling, colorful illustrations and neat bar. The acoustics can get loud, but not enough to spoil your visit.
It’s 5:30 on a typical Friday and the wait begins. Most of the folks in line have been here before and know what to expect. They observe patiently, hoping a table will soon become available at Nonna Silvia’s.
On Saturdays, the waiting game starts all over again. Some customers may be in line 30 minutes before being seated. A few ventured from as far as Schaumburg or Barrington.
A queue of eager diners isn’t unusual, particularly at the hot new restaurants. This Park Ridge trattoria isn’t exactly new, but sure is sizzling.
Since opening four years ago, Nonna Silvia’s has blossomed into one of the area’s preferred destinations for notable Italian cooking and pizza. Most of its 50 seats are occupied on weeknights, and waiting lines are inevitable on weekends. Diners are saying yes to Nonna, and partners/chefs/cousins John Giannini and Steve Marti respond with comforting dishes and imaginative flavors not likely found at Americanized Italian restaurants. They ratchet up the hospitality by stepping out of the kitchen every so often to mingle with their audience.
Produce and herbs from Marti’s farm are used extensively to intensify their cooking with freshness and stimulating subtleties. Examples: fettucine hand-rolled with organic Swiss chard, and ravioli stuffed with home-grown — not canned or frozen — pumpkin aroused with sage.
The preliminaries are a preview of good things to come. Pasta e fagioli, for instance, was hearty and warming, the noodles nice and firm, the broth deep and decent. Indeed, a super soup for a frosty winter evening.
Calamari alla griglia con spinaci is long in title and taste. Freshly marinated whole squid are lightly grilled and served over sautéed spinach, grape tomatoes and artichoke hearts. A drizzle of aged balsamic and splash of EV olive oil complete the chewy treat.
Previously mentioned fettucine belongs on the pasta A-list. The chard imparts a dark green tone and earthy essence to the noodles, while freshly crushed garlic, a touch of red chili peppers and a dusting of Parmigiano encourage a “wow.”
Another primo pasta is mezza luna, translating into half-moon shaped packets packed with a puree of fennel sausage, spinach and nutty flavored fontinella cheese in a gratifying sauce of heirloom — not ordinary — tomatoes sparked with basil.
Unlike some risotti in which the ingredients are overwhelmed by the rice, this di mare interpretation lets Alaskan king crab, shrimp, clams, mussels and calamari take the lead role with Arborio rice in support. Deft dashes of basil and garlic help assure seafood succulence in every forkful.
Though the Greeks claim to have the best lamb recipes, the Giannini-Marti tandem make a convincing statement with agnello modo mio. New Zealand (read: premium) rack of lamb is marinated with fresh herbs and lemon, grilled to acharred turn and served in a puddle of deliciously dark reduction sauce, with garlic mashed potatoes on the side.
Kudos also are in order for the red snapper al forno (roasted with kalamata olives, herbs and lemon over toasted ciabatta with shoestring sweet potatoes), and pollo Venuto (chicken breast sauteed with onions, shiitake mushrooms, spinach and sun-dried tomatoes in creamy goat cheese sauce).
A dessert that nicely complements any meal is pumpkin cheesecake — light, luscious, not overly sweet and crowned with a dollop of whipped cream. Homemade tiramisù and fried dough balls satisfy, too. The 50-count wine roster, highlighting top-shelf Italian labels, is compatible with the cuisine.
Despite not much wiggle room, youthful servers like Desirae Mercuri weave in and out of traffic with affable, accommodating efficiency.
The corner storefront emits a casual, come-as-you-are vibe with a faux brick wall, tin ceiling, colorful illustrations and neat bar. The acoustics can get loud, but not enough to spoil your visit.
